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In
Praise of Shiva
In the Hindu pantheon, Vishnu, Shiva
and Brahma form the trinity. Brahma,
the creator, is seldom worshipped and most
of the Hindus divide their allegiance
between Vishnu and Shiva. Although Vishnu is
termed the preserver and Shiva the
destroyer, their attributes and qualities
overlap. The followers of Shiva find in him
creative, protective and destructive
aspects, which merge into a continuing cycle
of birth and death. Elephanta is the
glorious abode of Shiva. He reigns supreme
here. The cave temple opens out on three
sides, letting in light from many angles so
that the sculptures seem to move and shift
in the transitions from light to shadow.
Sunlight entering from so many directions
and changing from moment to moment and
season to season, defines the nature of the
experience here.
Inside the temple is a large pillared hall
with rows of columns that seem to hold up
the roof of the cave. Cross beams complete
the illusion of a ceiling. The pillars are
deliberately simple so that attention is
drawn to and focused on the marvelous
sculptured panels - nine - in - all set like
tableaux on the walls. As you stand before
each panel, subtle relationship between
light and shadow emerge, nuances of emotions
change as Shiva displays his paradoxical
nature in different forms and moods.
The plan of the temple is symmetrical with
the important focal points worked out in a
geometrical mandala - the magical design
that represents an energy filed.
Little is known about
the architects, the
sculptors who worked here and whose genius
created this unique monument so distinct
from previous achievements. Who were they?
One is left wondering at the intensity of
their faith, the fervor that inspired them
no less than their extraordinary ability and
versatility. The tender lyricism that
infuses the wedding scenes, the anger and
passion of the Andhakasuravadha, the
nonchalance with which Shiva imprisons
Ravana with the mere pressure of a toe, the
tranquility of Yogishwara all these emotions
are still powerful, and still stir you
despite the ruthless desecration by the
Portuguese in the 16th century
and the weathering of time.
At the western end of the cave is the quiet
still center of Elephanta, the sanctuary of
the linga. This is the simplest
form, encompassing the essence of creative
power, in which Shiva is worshipped as the
Lord of fertility and procreation. Large
guardian figures, dwarapalas,
stand gracefully posed on all sides of this
austere, square sanctuary.
Two smaller shrines flank the eastern and
western entrances to the main cave. The
sculptures here have been badly mutilated.
The northern entrance, opening to the sea,
is the one that is easily accessible and
used today. The eastern entrance, which
leads straight to the sanctuary of the linga,
was probably used when the cave temple was
an active center of worship.
Several centuries later the Portuguese took
possession of the island, they found a
monolithic stone elephant at the place where
they landed and so named this a ilha
do elephanta, island of the elephant.
There was a stone horse too, a little
further, which has vanished without a trace.
The Portuguese built a fort here with a
watchtower, hoisting up a flag to ward off
attacks by pirate boasts. Did they use the
caves for target practice? Or did they
deliberately desecrate the sculptures?
Antonio Bocarro, a Portuguese
chronicler of the 17th century
described Elephanta vividly and made special
mention of the cistern of water in the
western cave. There is also a large and deep
tank of water without which the heathens of
the East could never build their pagodas,
because among their other abominations they
believe that water purifies and cleanses
them.
The British followed the Portuguese and
there are some interesting 18th
century accounts describing Elephanta.
Captain Alexander Hamilton fired a gun into
one of the caves. "I never heard canon
or thunder make such a dreadful noise, which
continued for half a minute and the mountain
seemed to shake". As soon as the noise
subsided a serpent 15 feet long emerged from
the cave, sending Alexander Hamilton pelting
down the hill.
The great stone elephant toppled over and
was earmarked for the British museum, where
it would have been presently had not the
crane broken while attempting to ship it.
Jumbo was then moved to a city museum in
Bombay.
Out of the launch you climb 120 steps a
steep hill. Birds and monkey chatter amid
the branches arching above, through the
trees behind you the sea shimmers in the
sunlight as you step into the cleaning
before the caves.
Getting there.
Regular launch services from the Gateway of
India take you to Elephanta Island
throughout the year, except during the
monsoon. If the steep climb up to the cave
is daunting you can hire a chair to be
carried up.
Best Time to Visit
November to March is the ideal time. During
May the crossing may be a little rough.
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