|
Exotic
India - A Journey Down The Civilization
by Evelyn Bedau
After a three day stay in New Delhi our group proceeded to Agra, one of the glittering aspects of the Indian tour.
We reached Agra by flight from Delhi. In 1982 both airports were
in a slightly shabby condition! The only program for the day was the visit to the Taj Mahal in the afternoon. I am not sure whether the timing for the visit of Taj Mahal was purposely slotted for the afternoon or
simply happened by chance but it was the best timing we could have.
Who has not the best timing we could have. Who has not heard about the famous Taj Mahal, the monument of great love? Everyone was excited, with eyes fixed eagerly at the windows of the tourist but not to miss the majestic view of "The Taj" - and what did we see? Nothing but an arched gateway! May be the architect wanted to be confronted with the dream in marble. Only after passing the gateway with its high entrance hall did my eyes fall upon the Taj Mahal. And the view was breathtaking. No photo can do justice to the reality. No photo can give you the impression of the atmosphere, the elegance, the symmetry, the ambience of the building.
We had ample time and strolled through the well manicured garden with the canals and the water basin, visited the mosques on the west and east sides and finally entered the
mausoleum itself. Though there had been a noteworthy
number of people inside the monument in 1982 there was a feeling of admiration and respect for the graves of Shah Jahan and his wife Mumtaz Mahal. But in 1991 I found the atmosphere changed into that of a
fair ground with the hustle and bustle and the guides explaining to their groups about the architecture; the tourists jostling their way down to the tombs where the mortal remains of the emperor and his wife rest in neglected conditions.
Coming out the group walked on the marble platform around the Taj Mahal, admiring the intricate
Pietra Dura inlay work and the
calligraphical ornaments. Due to the time chosen we were able
to experience the changing appearance of the building. The
color of the Taj changes with the sunlight. In the early afternoon it is of an intense brilliant white,
around four O'clock it turns of a soft yellow. Maybe one day I will have the chance to
enjoy the Taj Mahal bathed in moonlight, said to be the most impressive view on earth.
The next day we visited the Agra Fort, situated at the curve of the Yamuna River, Akbar started the construction of the Fort in 1565, followed by Jehangir and shah Jahan. The
view of the Taj Mahal from the Jasmin-tower, the place where Shah Jahan was kept prisoner till his death by his son Aurangazeb, has something touching.
On the other side of the Yamuna is the monument of Mirza Ghayas Beg, the father of Noorjahan, the beloved wife of Jehangir. The beautiful small building, named
Itmad-ud-Daulah's Tomb is said to be the prototype inspiration of the Taj Mahal. With it's marvelous inlay work and its peculiar square stone craft, it is a real jewel in the realm of architecture.
Another highlight was the visit to Fattehpur Sikri, situated about 35 km from Agra, The city founded by Abar is connected with a legend: Akbar who was childless, heard of the powers of the Sufi saint Salim Chisti and undertook a pilgrimage to the Saint to receive his blessings. Miraculously soon after the pilgrimage a son was born to him by his wife Jodhabai in
1570. Akbar, in gratitude and happiness, started the construction of his saint. Of all the buildings in Fatehpur Sikri, I found the Panch Mahal and the Diwan-I-Khas the most impressive.
The Panch Mahal, a
five storey airy building which was used as a spectators gallery for watching the Pachisi game (played with living toys) is breathtaking for its architecture and the Diwan-I-Khas for its history. Akbar used to conduct discussions on philosophy and theology sitting stop a giant pillar which adorned the center of the gigantic structure. The Jami Masjid I still remember, not because of the huge gateway or the white monument of the Saint Salim
Chisti ( I also made a wish and tied a small red thread to the intricate stonewall for a wiry gentleman, dressed only in a loincloth. He earned money from the tourists by jumping down from the mosque into a terribly small well in front of it. Our hearts leapt into our mouths at the sight of the jump. Our group decided to give him some money with an advice forbidding him to jump. But he jumped again and thank God, he reappeared wet and smiling proudly to collect his "fee". He was not sure what his real age- it might have been around fifty and told us proudly about his six sons (the number of the daughters he didn't mentions).
Ten years later my husband and I revisited Fatehpur
Sikri, the Panch Mahal, Diwan-I-Khas etc. and finally reached the Jami Masjid. After visiting the mosque we sat down in front of the main gate and watched a group of tourists who were engaged in a discussion with a person not visible to us. Suddenly the group parted to give way to an old man dressed in a loincloth. The man was not wiry any longer, he was skinny and bent by his age. But he was the same gentleman we had seen jumping from the gate-wall ten years ago. And he was still jumping for money into the well, deep down !!! Sure he could not remember us and was surprised to be greeted like an old friend.
|
